45″ Thurgarcraft (Electric 12S)

Everingham 45" Hull

Everingham 45″ Hull

Over the last few weeks we have been busy assembling two new hulls here at RC Boat Builder! Not just any old hulls may I add, but scaled down versions of the Australian designed Everingham or Evo as some will call them here.

These hulls at 45″ are very common in the gas powered groups, tried and tested over many years. I’m not claiming we are the first to set them up electric but there certainly isn’t too many floating around!

A complete build log can be found by clicking ‘Continue Reading’ below!

Ingredients List:

To kick off this build log here is a complete list of the hardware that was used to assemble the hulls.  We like to support our local retailer ‘RC Boat Bitz‘, so for that reason here are the links to the items on their website.  (There is no affiliation between our websites, we support these guys because we want them to stick around for a long time to come!!)

  • Motor: 5850 600Kv TP Power (Link)
  • ESC: Swordfish 300a Pro + (Link)
  • Rudder: 165mm with 6″ Standoff (Link)
  • Stinger: 1/4″ with Angle and Length Adjustment (Link)
  • Trim Tabs: Dual CNC trim tabs 80mm x 50mm (Link)
  • Turn Fins: 93mm x 36mm (Link)
  • Flex Cable: 1/4″ 1 Piece (Link)
  • Collet:  10mm X 1/4″ (Link)
  • Drive Dog: 1/4 x 9mm (Link)
  • Prop: 63mm 3 blade CNC prop 1/4″ 6314 (Link)
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Let the fun begin!

These hulls were sourced from the local distributor Mark Watts here in Sydney, Australia.  The story goes that they are manufactured locally by a professional glasser who builds full scale power boats.   I don’t know the backgrounds of the molds, who made them etc but I believe Mark adopted a cowl so that electrics could be born.

This particular example is fibre glass with a layer of carbon on the floor and 5″ rails installed for greater stability.  It’s a very solid hull that is presented nicely, the transom is made from marine grade wood and the exterior is gel coated in the mold.  They did arrive a little ‘dull’ in colour but after a few hours of polishing with car polish, we were able to get the desired finish.

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Step one – Make it look fast!

As this hull is not commercially built, they didn’t come with any decals. We decided to pull out the old vinyl plotter and played around creating a window decal and livery for the beast.

The end result certainly isn’t sporty, it looks more like a New York City taxi.

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Step two – Locking down the hatch without hockey tape.

At this point, we had not received our hardware order. However we did have a few spares laying around in-order to secure the cowl/hatch. It was a simple process of using the RC Boat Bitz hatch locks for the rear and taking a 20mm piece of alloy and bending it to shape to create a tongue to secure the front.

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Step three – Securing down the lipo batteries. 

Thanks to Australia Post our local mail service, we were still waiting for our hardware to arrive. Impatient and keen to crack on with the build, we used pieces of alloy floating around our workshop to create a battery tray.  Once completed this will be bolted down between the 5″ rails with room for velcro straps to be passed through.

Fixing the tray with bolts will allow us to move it around if we are unhappy with the balance of the boat after the first couple of test runs.

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Step four – Drive shaft/flex cable installation!

Our parts have now arrived and we are ready to rock and roll. Our first task was to install the drive shaft, a 1/4″ one-piece flex cable with a telfon liner and 11/32 brass tube.

We started by finding the centre of the transom, then drilling a hole for the stuffing tube using a 11/32 drill bit for a nice tight fit.   You might ask how high should the hole be drilled from the keel, this is up to you.  Do you want the prop fully submerged or partially submerged.  We are not too concerned as we will use a three blade prop.  For reference our hole is 10-15mm from the keel.

To double check alignment we placed the T-bar between the rails to see if we were floating around the magical centre mark.  Thankfully we were.

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Next we drilled the holes for the stinger, by feeding the stuffing tube through the transom and into the stinger and ensuring it was centered and level prior to centre punching the drill points.

Once drilled, we fixed the stringer to the transom with the supplied bolts.  A good tip is to dab a bit of silicone into the holes before installing the bolts to assist with water proofing the hull.

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Step five – Installing the trim tabs.

We are not experts and every hull is different, so we are not going to post any hard or fast rules for installing trim tabs and turn fins.  There are a few websites floating around with some great resources to assist you in your decision making!  However, trial and error is probably the best tip we can offer.  If your assembling this exact hull, feel free to use our setup as a template. Writing this article post build, I can say we are very happy with our setup thus far.

We wanted to keep the tabs as close to the keel as possible, to keep plenty of room for the turn fins and rudder.

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Step six – Let there be steering.

Before installing the rudder, you need to drill the push rod hole from the inside. However in-order to know the position of the push rod hole, you will need to install your servo and servo horn first.

We have done this a little differently to most, instead of using a water proof control box mounted to the 5″ rails.  We simply bolted the servo to the outside of the rail using a standard servo mount and then used an extended servo horn to bring the push rod back closer to the centre of the transom.  This should mean the rudder is not too far offset from the centre, if it’s too far from the centre you might encounter prop walk or torque twist.

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Now the servo is secured, install the push rod and mark where it will pass through the transom and drill a 9/32 hole. We then push a 30mm long piece of 9/32 brass through the hole, this allows for the rubber boot to be installed easily.

Now fix the rudder to the transom, this is an easy process as you have already installed the push rod.  Double check to ensure that your rudder is long enough, you want it to be at least 60mm past the keel (rule of thumb?).

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Step Seven – Install the motor!

You might have noticed that we still have not permanently installed the stuffing tube?  The brass tubing that the flex cable sits in.  Why?  Because you need to install the motor first so you can bend the stuffing tube accordingly.

We are using a pretty cool motor mount, at first I was pretty confident we would simply glue the motor mount in place. But on second thought, why not bolt it into the rails so it can be adjusted or replaced easily in the future.  Long story short, here is the result below!

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Step Eight – Bending the stuffing tube…

Unfortunately we don’t have any photos of this process, it was a bit late in the evening a few beverages had been consumed. We simply forgot to take any photos.  It’s not too hard thou, follow these steps as a guide;

  1. Cut the 11/32 copper tube to length.
  2. Mark where you want it to bend with a marker, remember less bend is best.
  3. Heat up the brass tube with a naked flame, we use the grill on our BBQ.  Before applying the flame hold the tube by sticking a phillips head screw driver in each side. Once it’s red hot slowly bend it!
  4. It might take a few goes to get it perfect, remember you want the bend to be flush, so when you feed the flex cable up the stinger and into the stuffing tube the flex cable comes out and sits into the collet nice and flush!  (If your angles are all wrong and its a tight horrible fit, your drive line is going to get very hot and your going to put unnecessary strain on your motor, ESC and batteries).
  5. Once you are happy, install the T-bar to secure the stuffing tube in place and seal the transom with some glue or silicone . As we drilled the hole with the same size drill bit as the stuffing tube, its going to be quite secure already.
  6. Cut the flex cable to size by installing the teflon washer, dog drive and prop.
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Step Nine – Installing the turn fins.

We could have done this earlier in the build, the only reason we didn’t was to make the build a little safer so I didn’t cut myself!   When we install turn fins we like them to be high enough so they are not fully submerged when the boat is sitting level in the water. Our second tip is to ensure they come out at a 90 degree angle from the bottom of the hull.

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Step Ten – Secure the battery tray.

As we mentioned earlier, we secured the battery tray with two 1/4″ stainless steel bolts on each side of the rail.  Velcro straps were installed prior to this installation to secure the batteries in place.

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Step Eleven – Plumbing the water lines.

We won’t go to far into this process, after completing all of the above this step is going to be a total piece of cake.  Before plumbing up make sure the water jacket is installed on the motor and the ESC is positioned.

We like using bulk heads to pass the water lines through the transom and into the hull.  Once installed send one line to the motor and the other to the ESC, one tip is to install the water input into the lowest  point of the water jacket on the motor.

Decide where you want the water lines to come back out of the hull, we like a point above the surface of the water, so we can keep an eye on the system while we are running. It’s good to be able to drive past and see the water flowing out.

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Step Twelve – The last and easiest step!

Install your antenna holder, do this where every you like it.  it’s a cosmetic decision on our part, with a digital surface radio it could really be installed anywhere on the top of the boat.  I like to put mine at the rear, however Daniel the other half of this site likes to put his at the front.

 

Completed Shots!

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45" Thurgarcraft (Electric 12S) » Carbon Fibre Genesis 900 (Electric)
Bare Hull
Rudder Placement
Backing Plate
Rudder Installed
Strut + Water Inlets
Offset Rudder
Motor Mount
Water Outlets
Progress!
Battery Mounts
Mounts Complete
Progress Shot!
Motor Alignment
Driveline Hole
Stuffing Tube
Expoxy Putty
Driveline Complete
Servo Mount
Water Tubing